While wine lovers who love bold reds are happy to spend the cold weather drinking rich Bordeaux and Cabernets by the fire, there’s no reason that white wines should be saved for sipping by the beach. For whites that wow, even in the winter, Wine Spectator asked six top sommeliers for their favorite picks. From full-bodied Chardonnays to nutty Sherries to crisp Alpine bottlings, these are the white wines that somms break out during cozy season.
“I love to drink California Chardonnay in the wintertime. I like all of the styles the state produces, from the mineral-driven bright wines from Sta. Rita Hills to the ripe tropical wines of Napa Valley. When it begins to get chilly, a dream scenario would be to cuddle up with a Steinbeck novel and a bottle of Kongsgaard Chardonnay.”—Jacob Brown, wine director of 2024 Grand Award winner Lazy Bear, San Francisco
“The Rhône captures the festive and cozy aspects of winter that I crave. Graeme & Julie Bott [Vin de France] First Flight is a wine that I always like to have at hand during the colder months. It’s a fresher style of Viognier, with a floral aroma indicative of this variety, and a good start to an evening. What I most associate with winter choices in terms of white wine is Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc. These wines tend to age well, they are full-bodied and expressive and only make up 7 percent of wine from the region. These wines pair well with holiday dishes; richer and gamier menus. I drink Riesling from the Mosel [in Germany] year round, but Chardonnay from Baden is definitely something I drink more of in the winter. Still feels cool climate, being right across the border from Alsace, and 40 percent of production is devoted to Pinot Noir, but the Chardonnay is worth seeking out.”—Nikita Malhotra, beverage director and partner of Smithereens, New York City
“Fino Sherry is one of my favorites. The first reason is that the wine is fortified, so the higher alcohol content will warm you up a bit quicker than the typical glass of white wine. Fino has some intense savory notes and a slightly nutty finish, which pairs well with warm, rich foods, as well as cheeses and cured meats.”—Sarah Vanags, wine director, Award of Excellence winner Casa Teresa, Washington, D.C.
“I often go for the whites of the Savoie in the winter. As [these wines are] made in the Alps, it feels appropriate to cozy up on the couch with some Jacquère [one of Savoie’s main grape varieties] and charcuterie. I love the Cuvée Silice Blanc from Domaine des Ardoisières and the late, beloved legend Dominique Belluard’s Gringet.”—Dora Grossman-Weir, head sommelier of Best of Award of Excellence winner Tolo, New York City
“Chardonnay is a versatile choice for any occasion. The Martin Woods Koosah Vineyard from the Eola-Amity Hills in Oregon [is a] beautiful Chardonnay that showcases bright acidity and fresh aromatics, largely attributed to its high elevation, which results in notable diurnal temperature shifts. The Parrett soil contributes to the texture and tension of the wine, reminiscent of Puligny-style wines, but at a more accessible price point. The Donnachadh ‘Estate’ from Sta. Rita Hills, California [is] a concentrated and complex Chardonnay sourced from top hillside blocks. The strong ocean breezes enhance its precise minerality, while fermentation in 20 percent new French oak and five months of lees aging adds richness and roundness.—Eamon Pereyra, wine director of Best of Award of Excellence winner the Peacock Mediterranean Grill, Austin
“For me, wintertime is for wines that are comfortable and enveloping. Few regions can compete with the southwest of France for quality and value at the moment. The spicy, richer style like Domaine Castera’s Tauzy [from the Jurançon] pairs with my favorite cozy snack: a cheese plate. I’m also drinking a lot of fuller-bodied Rieslings. Lukas Hammelmann from the Pfalz makes dry wines with a lot of density—less crushable and more pensive.”—Julia Schwartz, wine director of Best of Award of Excellence winner Claud, New York City
