Comfort food should make us feel like kids. It tickles the part of the heart that responds to being cared for and sustained. This is still (or even more) powerful for grownups, but most wine and food lovers like their comfort food to be a little dressed up. Think about the pizza you eat now versus what you ate at your best friend’s birthday party when they turned six.
Mac and cheese screams comfort food like few other dishes. It’s so simple—basically a Mornay sauce (béchamel with cheese) folded into cooked pasta and baked—that there is pretty much just one way to gussy it up: use better cheese.
Cheddar, originally a British cheese, is traditional, and I would not go off script. The specific dish originates in England, though it appears to derive from ancient Italian layered pasta and cheese dishes like lasagna, which explains the flurry of Parmigiano-Reggiano added just before baking. However, the super-aged, very fine Cheddars we have happily written about are typically not going to go full-metal melty in this dish, so use something younger. You can also mix in a little bit of aged Cheddar for that added funk or sharpness.
Grocery stores now reliably carry really good Cheddars so you can pack more flavor into the dish while still getting it gooey. Some will have age designations, but in most cases they will say something like “seriously sharp.”
Which Wines Pair Well with Mac and Cheese?
Why does no one talk about comfort wines? Everyone who loves wine has at least a few reds and whites—whether specific brands, regions or varieties—that are happy-making, reliable old friends. Those are the wines to serve here. Yeah, I know I am ignoring the rules of the pairing “game,” but a dish like this has the flavor and texture to work with a number of types of wine. It’s one of the leading “plays well with others” of the food world.
And the great thing about mac and cheese is that you can easily make adjustments to the recipe to make it pair better with your favorite wine. I’m recommending six whites, as they are a preferred pairing for many cheese dishes, but no one will get mad if you serve a red instead.
Pairing with Light and Crisp White Wines
If you prefer a lighter, crisper style of white wine such as Pinot Grigio or a Loire white, you might avoid the “seriously sharp” cheeses, which can make the whole experience too acidic. If the wine has herbaceous or vegetal notes, you can add a handful or two of blanched, chopped vegetables to the mac and cheese before baking.
• The bright, mouthwatering Marco Felluga Pinot Grigio Collio Mongris 2023 (90 points, $21) carries flavors of ripe nectarine, citrus and tropical fruit, along with accents of ginger and honeysuckle.—Alison Napjus
• If you really want to elevate your dinner, the Château Carbonnieux Pessac-Léognan White 2022 (93, $50) would be a great option if you’re adding lobster (or langoustines) for a restaurant-level mac and cheese. Bright and engaging, this Sauvignon Blanc–Sémillon blend opens with herbal and oyster shell notes, followed by enticing lemon pith, white peach and star fruit flavors through the long, fresh finish.—James Molesworth
Pairing with Round and Fruity White Wines
I like to balance round, fruity whites such as Viognier and Chenin Blanc with earthy flavors, and number one is mushrooms. Cook them in a little butter, chop them up and mix them in before baking.
• The succulent Vincent Carême Vouvray Le Clos 2022 (92, $21) balances richness and freshness in its mix of fleshy apple and quince fruit, spice notes, quinine and a savory, bitter lime peel finish.—K.B.
• The juicy Terra d'Oro Chenin Blanc-Viognier Clarksburg 2023 (90, $14) offers a mix of ripe melon, peach, dried pineapple, floral and citrus notes on its sleek frame. Chenin Blanc and Viognier.—MaryAnn Worobiec
Pairing with Oaky White Wines
The mustard in this recipe is a little spiky, and the pepper flakes add some heat. If you like oaky whites such as many Chardonnays, leave out the chile pepper and maybe reduce the amount of mustard, both of which can turn oaky vanilla flavors bitter and unpleasant. For a little extra oomph and a salty kick, add diced or slivered ham, which always does well with oaked wines.
• The intense, generous Brewer-Clifrton Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills 2022 (93, $40) is mouthwatering, with a core of citrus flavors and lingering aromatic notes of orange blossoms and sweetgrass on the long finish.—M.W.
• The elegant Neyers Chardonnay Carneros 2022 (92, $35) displays salted butterscotch, nutmeg and ginger notes that mingle with refreshing flavors of peach, apricot and dried pineapple.—M.W.
Classic Mac and Cheese Recipe
The following recipe is adapted from Marian Burros’ Cooking for Comfort (Simon & Schuster, 2003).
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 1 cup onion, finely diced
- 2 tablespoons flour
- 2 cups milk
- 1 tablespoon mustard
- 12 ounces cheddar
- 1⁄2 pound macaroni or cavatappi
- Salt and pepper
- 1⁄4 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
- 2 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano
1. Melt the butter over medium heat in a pan that is large enough to hold all the ingredients. Add the onion, and cook, stirring; do not brown. Sprinkle in the flour while continuing to stir. Add the milk, and stir briskly with a whisk for several minutes. Turn off the heat, and add the mustard and the cheddar, stirring until smooth.
2. Preheat the oven to 400˚ F. Cook the pasta until it is almost done. Drain, and fold it into the sauce while hot. Salt and pepper to taste. Stir in the red pepper flakes if using. Transfer the pasta to a casserole dish. (I use a round, 9-inch ceramic dish that’s 5 inches deep.) Sprinkle Parmigiano-Reggiano on top. Bake for 30 minutes. Serve immediately. Serves 4.
Recipe Variations on Mac and Cheese
Bacon Béchamel Mac and Cheese with Sharp Cheddar
Shared with us by chef Ryan Lory when he worked at Charlie Palmer Steak in New York City, this version incorporates bacon fat, shallots and white wine into the béchamel. Lory used two local cheeses—white and yellow Cheddars from New York state—and topped the dish with panko breadcrumbs that get golden-brown. With the meaty bacon notes, this version can stand up to a lush red such as a California Merlot, bringing out its fruit notes, while the red’s higher-alcohol level cuts through the richness of the food. Check out his recipe here!
Gourmet Bacon Mac and Cheese
Prefer full-on bacon? In this recipe, the dish, which mixes a touch of Gruyére into the cheddar, is topped with crumbled applewood-smoked bacon strips and Parmesan bread crumbs before baking. It’s versatile with a range of wines, from a Greco white from southern Italy’s Campania region to a bubbly red Lambrusco.
Smoky Jalapeño Mac and Cheese
This version adds smoked Gouda to the mix of white and yellow Cheddars, plus adds a kick of spice with chopped, seeded jalapeño peppers. To tie in with that element, try a crisp, refreshing Sauvignon Blanc (the variety often has a green pepper note); in this case, we enjoyed it with an Australian Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon blend.
Mushroom Mac and Cheese
This take is for Pinot Noir lovers; Pinot is an ideal match for earthy, savory sautéed mushrooms—in this case, cremini. Adding Gruyère to the cheese mix ups the dish’s level of sophistication as well.
