While Mardi Gras or Carnival traditions differ from city to city and country to country, even in the same location, the celebrations can look different for each person. For some, it’s a time to head to the streets for festivals and parades, immersing oneself in the beat of the music, mingling with community and strangers alike. For others, it’s a simpler gathering, surrounded by loved ones while enjoying a feast of good food and drink. For chef Nina Compton—a leader in New Orleans’ modern dining scene, with her two influential restaurants, Compère Lapin and BABs—Mardi Gras has been the latter in recent years.
For a more intimate celebration, try this striking, wine-friendly brown stew snapper from Compton’s first cookbook, Kwèyòl/Creole: Recipes, Stories and Tings from a St. Lucian Chef’s Journey, being released on April 1 by Clarkson Potter.
This snapper is a classic dish from Jamaica; as a young chef, Compton moved there from St. Lucia to jumpstart her career. To her, Jamaica was seen as the “north star” of the Caribbean, a mixing pot of cultures from across the island and the globe.
“[A friend told me recently that] we, as Caribbean people, we see each island as different. We should treat the Caribbean as a continent, even though we’re divided by water,” Compton told Wine Spectator. “The issues [among the islands] do overlap—there is some similarity— but there are also some differences.”
That sentiment is behind the premise of Kwèyòl/Creole, which is broken up into four sections that cover Compton’s career as a chef, as well as the Caribbean diaspora: St. Lucia, Jamaica, Miami (where she worked at several leading restaurants before competing on the 11th season of Bravo’s Top Chef) and New Orleans, which she has called home for over a decade. New Orleans—often described as the “northernmost part of the Caribbean”—won her heart while she was filming Top Chef, with its vibrant communities and its dedication to preserving traditions while evolving to incorporate new cultures.
“There’s no city that feels like this,” says Compton. “It is the most unique city in the country and that is so deep. Everybody has a story [when they visit], but their eyes light up. I haven’t met a single person who says ‘I never liked it.’ They have a fond memory: ‘Oh, I had the best gumbo at this place … I had the best po’ boy here.’ For me as a chef, it’s very exciting, because it always connects with food.”
One of Compton’s top Mardi Gras memories is being invited to a crawfish boil held by one of New Orleans’ royal families of cooking, the Chases, of the timeless Creole restaurant Dooky Chase. The family members have generous souls, says Compton; even though there may be 60 of them at a given holiday, whether it be Mardi Gras or Thanksgiving, they will always find room for another seat at the table. “[They have] such a tight bond. It’s all about family,” says Compton. “It’s something I love. My family is very close to me—it’s not as big as theirs, but when we’re together, we will do anything for each other. It’s a good energy, where you feel protected.”
Representing a different aspect of Creole cooking, this classic brown stew poured over crispy fried snapper is a fantastic centerpiece for a smaller Mardi Gras feast. Hailing from Jamaica, brown stew serves as a thread tying many Caribbean cuisines together. The key to it is browning sauce, made by deeply cooking brown sugar until it is almost at the point of turning bitter. This can be made at home, slowly and patiently (“just don’t leave the stove,” Compton stresses), but browning can also be easily purchased at international grocery stores or online. The fish and the stew are both accented by “green seasoning”—a common condiment in St. Lucian kitchens that’s made of olive oil, scallions, cilantro, peppers and ginger—resulting in a dish that’s both rich and herbaceous. While this recipe is for two people, it can be scaled up to accommodate more guests at your table.
Though this is a fish dish, the gravy is thick, earthy and spicy, with a hint of sweetness, so the meal can work well with both red and white wines, says Compton, whether you want a “complement or a contrast.” To contrast, she would choose a refreshing white such as Sancerre, with the crisp Sauvignon Blanc cutting a clear line through the already plentiful flavors in the dish. To complement, Compton would pick a slightly punchy but balanced Petite Sirah. “You don’t want to have something to overcrowd [the palate],” she says. “But the cherry notes of the Petite Sirah would match the sugar in the browning. The Sancerre would cut the richness.”
To help fill out the feast, Wine Spectator chose nine recently rated Sancerres and Petite Sirahs that are sure to help let the good times roll.
Brown Stew Snapper
Reprinted with permission from Kwéyòl / Creole: Recipes, Stories, and Tings from a St. Lucian Chef's Journey by Nina Compton with Osayi Endolyn copyright © 2025.
Ingredients for the Snapper
- 1 (1 to 1½ pound) whole red snapper, scaled and gutted
- 3 tablespoons Green Seasoning (see below)
- 1½ tablespoons kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon minced garlic
- ½ teaspoon grated fresh ginger
- ½ teaspoon thyme leaves
- ½ teaspoon ground white pepper
- 1 lemon, zested and juiced
- Canola oil, for frying
- 2 cups rice flour
Ingredients for the Brown Stew
- 1 medium Spanish onion, thinly sliced
- 1 red bell pepper, thinly sliced
- 1 teaspoon minced Scotch bonnet pepper
- 1 teaspoon thyme leaves
- 1 garlic clove, minced
- ½ teaspoon Green Seasoning (see below)
- 1 fresh bay leaf
- 3 medium tomatoes, cut into ¼-inch dice
- ¼ cup sliced okra (¼-inch rounds)
- ¼ cup browning sauce (homemade or store-bought, eg. Kitchen Bouquet, Grace, Jamaican Choice ...)
- 2 cups vegetable stock
- 2 scallions, thinly sliced
Preparation
1. Prepare the snapper: Rinse the fish. Drain and pat dry with paper towels or a clean towel. Using a paring knife, gently but firmly score the fish from the gill to the tail on both sides, along the belly’s surface in crosshatches, about 2 inches apart. You want to go beneath the skin surface, but not so deep that you cut through the fish. When you’re done, it should look like a stretched grid across the fish’s surface.
2. Place the fish in a large bowl or on a sheet pan, then season with the green seasoning, salt, garlic, ginger, thyme, white pepper and lemon juice and zest. Use your hands to gently and thoroughly coat the fish with the seasoning on the inside and out. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes. Cover the fish if you marinate it overnight.
3. When you’re ready to cook the fish, in a large skillet, add canola oil to a depth of 2 inches (about 1 cup) and heat over medium to 350°F; check using an instant-read thermometer.
4. Once the oil is ready, spread out the rice flour on a wide, flat plate. Remove the fish from the refrigerator and lightly shake off any excess marinade. Evenly dust the exterior with the rice flour.
5. Immediately add the coated fish to the skillet. Cook each side until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer the fish to a plate or cooling rack.
6. Make the brown stew: Drain most of the oil from the skillet, leaving about 3 tablespoons behind, or add the same amount of oil to a wide saucepan. Add the onion, bell pepper, Scotch bonnet, thyme, garlic, green seasoning and bay leaf to the skillet or saucepan. Sauté over medium heat, stirring frequently to avoid any burns, until the onions are tender, about 2 minutes.
7. Add the tomatoes, okra and browning. Continue to stir. Add the stock and let the stew simmer until the vegetables soften and the sauce starts to thicken, about 5 minutes. Add the fish to the sauce and spoon it over the fish. Remove bay leaf and discard.
8. Top the stew and fish with scallions and enjoy immediately. Serves 2
NOTE: If you prefer, instead of frying the fish, simmer it in the brown stew sauce and bake in the oven for about 10 to 12 minutes at 350°F. Pour the stewed vegetables on top and then continue with the simmering instructions at the end.
Green Seasoning
Ingredients
- 1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 bunch of scallions, roots trimmed, sliced into 1-inch pieces
- ½ cup roughly chopped cilantro
- ½ cup roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley
- 1 small green bell pepper, chopped
- 2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh ginger
- ½ teaspoon chopped Scotch bonnet pepper
- 1½ teaspoons kosher salt
Preparation
1. In a blender, add the olive oil, scallions, cilantro, parsley, bell pepper, ginger, Scotch bonnet and salt. Puree until smooth, about 2 minutes. Transfer to an airtight container; it will keep, refrigerated, for up to 2 weeks.
Nine Sancerres and Petite Sirahs for Celebrations Big and Small
Note: The following list is a selection of outstanding and very good wines from recently rated releases. More options can be found in our Wine Ratings Search here.
Petite Sirah
TURLEY
Petite Syrah Paso Robles Pesenti Vineyard 2020
Score: 93 | $38
WS Review: Rich, yet brooding in style, with concentrated blackberry, dried cherry, sandalwood and garrigue accents that build tension and depth toward broad-shouldered tannins. Drink now through 2032. 426 cases made.—Tim Fish
FOPPIANO
Petite Sirah Russian River Valley 2021
Score: 90 | $28
WS Review: A zesty, old-school Petite Sirah, with energetic blackberry, licorice and mincemeat accents that perk along toward fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2030. 5,509 cases made.—T.F.
QUILT
The Fabric of the Land Napa Valley 2021
Score: 90 | $35
WS Review: A kitchen-sink blend that has zest and focus, offering lively cherry, toasty vanilla and spice flavors that zip on the long finish. Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2030. 11,895 cases made.—T.F.
RECANANTI
Yasmin Red Galilee 2022
Score: 89 | $16
WS Review: Graceful and smoky, this fresh red has a pretty mix of singed herb, brambly berry, lavender and rosemary flavors. Shows nice purity, with sculpted tannins gently framing the light- to medium-weight profile. Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Kosher. Drink now. 19,500 cases made, 3,500 cases imported.—Kristen Bieler
Sancerre
LE ROI DES PIERRES
Sancerre Silex 2023
Score: 91 | $33
WS Review: There's richness to this savory white, which shows a succulent, salty mix of kumquat, star fruit and bitter white grapefruit pith. Well-balanced and plump, with grassy and warm hay notes on the lime-edged, flinty finish. Drink now. 2,405 cases made, 2,405 cases imported.—K.B.
NICOLAS MILLET
Sancerre Domaine des Côtes Blanches 2023
Score: 92 | $30
WS Review: Hints of tropical richness and honey course alongside notes of apple, melon and subtle spices in this broad, intriguing white. An element of singed orange peel adds to the depth, while radish spice brings contrast to the snappy, focused finale. Drink now through 2028. 3,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—K.B.
GÉRARD FIOU
Sancerre Terroir Silex 2023
Score: 90 | $33
WS Review: There's good firmness and depth to this savory Sancerre, with meadow blossom, chive and fennel frond notes set against a salty mineral wall. Leesy and textured, with a harmonious and chiseled finish, which shows a tug of chalky tannins. Drink now through 2028. 4,583 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—K.B.
HUBERY BROCHARD
Sancerre 2023
Score: 90 | $39
WS Review: A piercing version, with a flinty profile to the firm stone fruit, flecked with oregano and a hint of honeysuckle. Angular and focused, showing density on the bone-dry, smoky finish. Drink now through 2028. 8,180 cases imported.—K.B.
CLAUDE RIFFAULT
Sancerre Les Boucauds 2022
Score: 90 | $38
WS Review: Pretty floral high tones introduce this juicy, zesty white, powered by a vivid beam of lime peel acidity. Good inner density and a vein of flint make for great structure and poise. Salt and smoke notes linger, with a hint of buttercream giving the finish a bit of richness. Drink now through 2027. 3,000 cases made, 800 cases imported.—K.B.
