Minneapolis’ North Loop is one of those familiar places in modern American cities: a young, affluent, downtown-adjacent neighborhood filled with newly built five-over-one apartment complexes within striking distance of a river (in this case, the mighty Mississippi). What sets North Loop apart from other urban, pedestrian-friendly areas in the City of Lakes is its concentration of impressive restaurants, bars and nightlife. Some of the neighborhood’s finest wines can be found at Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence winner Maison Margaux, owned and operated by leading local chef David Fhima.
Maison Margaux opened on First Street in 2023, taking over the historic industrial building that once housed Ribnick Luxury Outerwear, the Twin Cities’ last operating furrier. According to the Maison Margaux team, the multi-level space underwent a major renovation to include different dining experiences: the sleek Salon Rouge underground (styled to “resemble the French catacombs,” sans skulls), the classically Parisian main dining room and a “theater kitchen” that guests can look into from all angles.
“To me, it was the perfect time for a French restaurant with an amazing wine cellar, an authentic brasserie … with a classic street front terrace and a menu to rival the most genuine French restaurant anywhere,” said Fhima in a statement.
The menu showcases Fhima’s classic French training, something he touched on at his first restaurant, the French-Moroccan Best of Award of Excellence winner Fhima’s Minneapolis. Based on brasserie fare, the menu for the dining room and Salon Rouge includes mussels steamed with a spicy tomato confit, pork belly and Brie clafouti and coquilles St.-Jacques. For mains, look to essentials such as short ribs Bourguignon, Dover sole meunière and a bone marrow and duck confit (served alongside toast made with a 130-year-old sourdough starter).
Rare Bottles to Remember
Fhima’s vision of a world-class wine program focuses primarily on key French regions like Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rhône Valley. Expect to see standout bottles from the likes of Château de St.-Cosme, Château Cos-d’Estournel, Château Lynch Bages and Joseph Drouhin. Wines from the rest of the world are also on offer, including picks from California and Italy as well as lesser-seen selections from Lebanon, Georgia and beyond. The final page of the wine program is dedicated to “Fhima Family Selections,” with aged bottles pulled directly from the chef’s own collection. These include coveted wines rarely seen in the Twin Cities, such as Château Cheval Blanc 1947, Pétrus 1945 and Harlan Estate 1995. The glass-doored cellar is encased in 130-year-old brick from the building’s original foundation.
“There is no greater satisfaction than the sense of accomplishment in researching and finding an undiscovered $50 bottle of wine 40 years ago that, when it reached our palates, surprised and delighted us then and that today is worth thousands,” said Fhima. “The pride comes in introducing those rare finds to our esteemed clientele. We continue to seek that experience every single day.”
